Sremski Karlovci: an easy half-day trip from Novi Sad
Baroque churches, a famous fountain, the place where a peace treaty changed Europe’s map – and some of the best wine in Serbia, all a short ride from Novi Sad.
· 5 min read
A small town with a big history
Only around ten kilometres down the Danube from Novi Sad, Sremski Karlovci feels like a different world. The whole town is compact and quiet, with baroque buildings, vineyards rising behind it and a main square that seems made for slow coffee.
It has played a role far beyond its size. In 1699 the Treaty of Karlowitz was signed here, ending a long war between the Ottoman Empire and the Holy League and redrawing the borders of Central Europe. The small Chapel of Peace on the edge of town marks the place where the negotiations took place.
For centuries Karlovci was also the spiritual and educational centre of the Serbs in the Habsburg lands, as the seat of the Serbian Orthodox metropolitans and later patriarchs.
Around the main square
Everything important is within a few minutes of the square. The Orthodox Cathedral of St Nicholas, with its two towers, dominates one side. Opposite stands the Patriarchal Court, a grand residence still used by the Serbian Orthodox Church.
Nearby is the Karlovci Gymnasium, founded in 1791 and considered the oldest Serbian grammar school. Its building is one of the most photographed in town. In the middle of the square is the Four Lions Fountain from the end of the 18th century; local legend says that whoever drinks from it will come back to Karlovci.
Wine and bermet
Sremski Karlovci sits on the slopes of Fruška Gora, and wine has been made here for centuries. The local speciality is bermet, a sweet, aromatic dessert wine flavoured with herbs and spices, made to recipes that families have kept for generations. Several family wineries and cellars in town offer tastings, and it is well worth trying a glass even if you don’t usually like sweet wine.
In autumn the town celebrates the grape harvest with a festival full of music, food and, of course, wine.
Stražilovo and the hills
If you have more time, walk or drive up to Stražilovo, a wooded hill above the town where the Romantic poet Branko Radičević is buried. It is a peaceful place with views over the vineyards, and the start of trails deeper into Fruška Gora.
How to get there
Local buses run regularly from Novi Sad and the ride is short, and Sremski Karlovci also has a train station on the line towards Belgrade. By car or taxi it is a quick, easy trip, which makes it ideal for a relaxed afternoon.
